Thursday, July 12, 2012

Late June 14th early June 15th


The day things went in the shitter. Looking back on it now the whole event feels more like a hazy movie that I am watching at an old run down movie theater; it seems so surreal that I have a hard time believing that the events that occurred on June 14th actually happened, but unfortunately they did.

Due to the derailment adventure on Tazara, the train did not arrive at the station in Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania until around midnight. Myself and another fellow traveller climb into a taxi and ask to be taken to the YMCA guest house, unfortunately the taxi driver and his friends had other plans. Bear with me because this is where time loses all meaning and my memory returns in short flashes of adrenaline. Adrenaline is a funny drug. I can remember noticing everything about that night. I can remember noticing the drivers face and his friends odd mannerisms; I can remember noticing his shoes and the smell in the car; I remember noticing all of the tiniest details, but the odd thing is that I do not actually remember any of it, just that I remember that I noticed them.  

Anyways, enough of the cloak and dagger mystery, many of you already know what happened and I am sure the other can guest. The driver drove us down a dark ally and four other guys jumped in and demanded our money, debit and credit cards, and the pin numbers. There was a lot of shouting, mainly at each other; I don’t think that they had had much practice at this. I do remember one guy was playing the bad guy and his friend was the good guy; I remember thinking “so this actually happens in real life, people get robbed and people actually use the good guy bad guy technique.” It’s not just for the movies folks. I did not cry or scream or panic; I can recall feeling surprisingly calm and somewhere in the back of my head I recalled an episode of Grey’s Anatomy (yes I am a bit embarrassed by this fact), where someone mentions that high jackers/kidnappers are less likely to harm you if they know more about you. So cue the verbal vomit. I started talking about my sisters and my family and how much I loved them, I talked about how I was volunteering as a nurse; I asked them about their families, and where they were from, and what they did for a living. Hind sight that last question was a bit obvious and redundant. I am not quite sure how long we were in the car, best guess about 45 minutes. The robbers gave us 50,000 shilling (about 30 USD) and dropped us off at a hotel.

As I am writing this the whole ordeal sounds completely horrifying and I can hardly believe that it happened to me, but I am virtually unharmed, still happy, still loving Africa, but a few dollars lighter. Granted I am writing this two weeks after this happened so I have had plenty of time to process the event.  I am still a little weary of taxis, my threshold for suspicion in much lower and my heart has a tendency to race at slight provocation, but I have faith that this will begin to lessen with time. On the bright side I can now wear an official world traveller badge, because I have survived a kidnapping and robbing (although I don’t think this provides any consolation to my family or friends, but I promise I am okay)! 

June 12th-14th


The Tazara! Now the traveling adventures begin. Although I am sad to leave the village behind I am quite excited to begin exploring Zambia and Tanzania. And what better way to see the countryside than a train? The Tazara is a train that runs from Kapiri, Zambia to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. The train moves at a snail’s pace, makes a hundred stops, bumps, rattles, and shakes worse than a paint mixer, and almost always breaks down at least once each trip. The journey takes three days. I became hopeful half way through the second day that we were going to arrive on time; unfortunately my hopes were premature. No sooner had my brain uttered these words of confidence one of the train cars derailed. No one was injured and only one car was affected. Surprisingly the problem was resolved on only 8 hours and one more railcar entered the railcar gravel yard; the solution was to detach the rebel car and push in off the tracks down the hill… problem solved.

I have never taken an overnight train anywhere else in the world so I have not else to compare it to, but I have a hunch that not all train rides are like this one. This is an African train! True to form the bathrooms are questionable and require an immense amount of skill and creativity to perform the necessary task without incident. I feel as though I have already gone into enough detail about the bathroom science in Africa that I feel it would be a bit redundant to explore the complexities of being a girl in a train bathroom. Just reread the toilet entry and then imagine the target constantly moving.

The food on the train was edible and cheap. The only issue was digesting the food. As I have mentioned before Nshema is a thick doughy/ pasty like substance made from maize meal. It has the same effect on one’s digestion that I assume swallowing a bucket of cement would; which given the bathroom situation was not entirely unwelcome. One of the most pleasing parts of the train ride besides that people that you meet and the beautiful scenery was the endless supply of beer. With little to do to occupy your time on a 56 hour train ride consuming alcohol and playing cards with new found friends is a viable and most often your only option to pass the time, that and staring blankly out the window.

June 10th


So my last day in the village was much like a going away party in the states… kind of. Typical of good American neighbors, the Nyansonso villagers brought over food the only slight difference was that this food was still breathing. As a gift or thank you I received two village chickens. One of those chickens met an immediate death; the other is still roaming around Nyansonso happily pecking and scavenging. I could not bring myself murder or bear witness to the murder of two animals in one day or so that’s what I tell myself; however I think it has more to do with the inability to consume that much village chicken. Only one who has eaten village chicken can fully understand the effort that goes into consuming it. I am not just taking about the throat slitting, the feather plucking, or the butchering, I am talking about that actual consumption of the chicken meat. It is kind of like chewing on leather with a lot less flavor. The flavor can be mildly improved by heaps of salt that would put a Chinese food restaurant to shame; unfortunately not much can be done about the toughness. You will undoubtedly end up with lock jaw.

The ritual of killing a chicken in the village is mildly heart breaking and poetic. Having received the first chicken (the one that gave its life for my dinner) I was required to hold it for about thirty minutes. The time is not all that important but act of holding the chicken, feeling it heartbeat, its breath, and its movement and the chicken feeling my heartbeat and breath was. This act was to demonstrate the appreciation of life and the importance of the chicken’s death. In a way I was making friends with my chicken to show it why it had to die. Beautiful in theory, heart breaking in reality. I walked around with this chicken in my arms and then I had to cut its head off; but the chicken was thanked.

I walked around Ellen’s compound trying to take as many mental and emotional pictures that I could. I repeatedly reminded myself that in all likelihood I was never going to return to this place, and I was never going to see these beautiful people again. Try as I might, I could not make the reality of my departure sink in. That is quite typical of my emotional consciousness; it won’t allow me to feel what I know is reality and then like it has realized that it is late for the party will open the flood gates and I will feel everything all at once. Sitting on the side of the road with my bags packed I patiently waited for my last hitch out of Nyansonso and patiently for the feeling of good-bye. The children passing asked where I was going and when I would be back; everyone had trouble comprehending the permanence of my departure, even Ellen. I did not feel the true pain and heaviness of the good bye until I climbed into the back of the pick-up truck and watched as the village slowly disappeared from view. I suppose that it was a good way to say good-bye to Nyansonso, no prolonged hugs or draw out good byes; I simply climbed in the back of a truck and waved. 

Thursday, June 7, 2012

June 7th


Ellen and I managed to walk 20km today; it was a long accidental walk.  I think that we maybe have confused many Zambians on our way. White people walking down the road in the middle of the bush, there must be something wrong with them. I am sure though that it must have been a sight; Ellen and I strolling down the road reading our books. When we finally made it home, we both lacked the energy to cook or to wait the two hours it takes to cook beans, so we had chocolate for dinner! I have yet to master cooking of beans, however I have mastered searching the bean carefully for rocks before soaking them over night. On more than one occasion I have had an unexpected surprise in my beans. Chew carefully or you might lose a tooth. 

June 5th


I went to the under-five clinic today. 68 children showed up! It was amazing. It would have been even more amazing if the ministry has delivered the vaccines that were promises, but the children were still weighed and some were given vitamin a so it was not a total loss.

June 4th


I am afraid that they may not allow me back into American society; I think that I may have become just a little too crazy to be accepted back into American culture. Today I went for a walk with my iPod blaring in my ears. A song, I can’t even remember which one it was now, began to play. The music and the lyrics filled me up so completely that I had to start singing at the top of my lungs. Then I thought to myself since I am already making a fool of myself signing to a song that no one else can hear I might as well go all out and start dancing too. So I was singing and dancing down the middle of the road and I don’t feel bad about it; in fact I felt so free and completely I could have stretched out my arms and took flight. So I feel as though this event will officially classify me as off my rocker. 

June 3rd


This is the part of my blog where I discuss race. So if you are extra sensitive about this subject or are easily offended please skip over this entry. I would like to start by saying that I am not a racist these are just events and things that I have observed while in Zambia.

Growing up in America I was raised and taught that a person’s race and the color of their skin is as no more significant than the color of their eye or their hair. The color of your skin frankly should not matter it is what is inside that counts. I am not saying that that is the way that it works in American society I know that civil rights and racism are still prominent issues, I am simply stating that color should not matter. Then I came to Zambia and that thinking is thrown out the window; not by me but by the Zambians I am living, working, and talking with. Just by being white I am set up on a pedestal. I am automatically considered smarter, richer, prettier, and more important because I am white. At first I found this very unsettling and I tried to fight it; I mean this went against everything that I had been raised to believe. But then someone wise pointed out to me that we cannot control the privileges we get in life. We have no control over the color of our skin, we have no control over the families, cultures, or countries we are born in therefore stop trying to fight it or change it. Instead she pointed out use the privilege that you are giving to create something good; use it to better the world. I know that the color of my skin does not make me better in anyway than anyone else, but it does put me in a position of power not because it is right or by choice, but just because Zambian culture dictates that being white is powerful.  Therefore I have an obligation to use this power to help others and initiate change where change is needed; I am not sure yet how or what I am going to do, but I hope it is good.

That’s it that is the end of the race talk so you can start reading again. I made it back to the village today and again I am overwhelmed with the joy that these children bring me. As my departure from this village nears I feel as though it may be impossible to leave them.  Don’t worry I am coming home I just was not prepared to become so attached so quickly. 

June 2nd


Today I ventured back to the hospital to conduct a videotaped interview with three of the nurses. My plan was to also interview the doctors but my camera died. One of most interesting things that I discovered is that the hospital lacks a gurney. They have no way to transport patients, not that there is much need for transport except to the morgue, but as of right now the wrap their deceased in a sheet and ask family members to carry the body the 200 yards to the mortuary.

Just out curiosity I asked a nurse what she would do if a patient’s heart stopped. She looked at me slightly confused and the stated that she would get the vital signs (blood pressure if they can find a cuff and temperature), then they would push adrenaline and solumedrol if there was IV access, and then she stated that they would do CPR. I asked her to walk me through the steps of CPR. She stated that she pushes on their chest a few times, five times to be exact and that is it. When I asked the doctor how they do CPR he stated that it is 5 compressions per 2 rescue breaths, but he also stated that he is never there for the ‘codes’. I also asked how they would manage a patient that stopped breathing the nurse stated that they would push a steroid through the IV, but they would not do rescue breaths. She actually seemed confused as to what rescue breathing was. When I asked about defibrillating a patient she replied excitedly “oh like what you see in American movies! Have you ever seen one!?” I am not sure what I expected, but it seems that the hospital staff would at least be educated in the excepted method of resuscitation regardless if they lack the means to execute them.

Today I also witnessed a child seizing for twenty minutes; it could have been much longer than that since I just timed it from when I arrived. The child was diagnosed with malaria and had been on medication for 48 hours; the child was afebrile and lab values were stable. The mother informed the doctor that the child had not eaten in 17 hours. The most common side effect of quinine, the medication used to treat malaria, is hypoglycemia, or low blood sugar. It was assumed that the child was experiencing a hypoglycemic seizure as opposed to cerebral malaria. Since there was no IV access the doctor pushed 10mg of Diazepam rectally with no response while the RN tried to gain IV access. When a line was finally established 10mg more of Diazepam was administered along with an amp of D50, which is concentrated sugar water.  When the seizures finally stopped the child remained postictal only withdrawing from pain for an hour until I felt. I sadly do not know the outcome of the patient, but the doctors seemed optimistic that the child would be fine. I am not a pediatric nurse nor do I have much experience with seizures, but from my limited knowledge and experience I was still able to stop about 15 potentially dangerous acts during this whole ordeal.  First and foremost administering 20mg of Diazepam in a 10 minute period on a child weighing only 15kg is very risky; the doctors are lucky that they did not kill the child’s respiratory drive.

I am struggling with intervening and giving advice on issues that I am not positive about, since my advice already lead to the circumcision of one man. Although I did protest the issue I do feel responsible. Without the proper resources I am afraid that by giving advice I may actually cause more harm than good unless it is a subject that I am certain about. For example there was a patient with a rheumatoid arthritis flare-up and they were treating her with Aspirin. Aspirin may reduce her risk of heart disease and reduce some pain but it will do little diminish the inflammation or resolve the flair up. I believe that you should use an anti-inflammatory such as naproxen or acetaminophen and that maybe in certain cases use a steroid if the RA is bad enough; but of these two things I am not entirely certain about and I hesitate sending a patient home on a steroid that will lower their immune system when they are drinking unclean water.  So I am torn between not helping when I know the treatment is inadequate or helping at the risk of giving wrong advice. 

June 1st


I spent my morning back at the hospital today. The doctors were only 30 minutes late today. I decided to do rounds in the male and female ward today. I encountered the same problems as I did during my previous visit. No mosquito nets over the hospital beds, no visible hand washing, not following orders, limited assessments, and treating for malaria without conducting the proper tests. When I broached each issue with each a doctor or a nurse they each came up with a different list of excuses. Malaria nets are not hung because it is unsanitary, or the patients take them, or it is not malaria season. Looking around at the stained and dirty beds and the close proximity of each patient I highly doubt that mosquito nets are the worst of their problems when coming to infection control. There are on average 10 people using the same bathroom; which is cleaned only once a day. There is only one bed pan for the entire hospital. There is one thermometer per ward; the temperatures are axillary but I have yet to witness any form of disinfection between patients. And to top it all off I can count on one hand the amount of times I witnessed a nurse and a doctor washing their hands. As for patients taking the nets this in not really a bad thing. For one the patient will have a mosquito net at home, hopefully reducing the incidence of malaria and secondly it would reduce the risk of infection by putting a clean net on each bed after a patient is discharged.  The last excuse about it not being malaria season I find the most absurd. If it is not malaria season then why is the working diagnosis for over half of the admitted patients malaria? Riddle me that one!

When I broached the issue of hand washing the nurses stated that they do wash their hands. They have a hand washing station located in their office. When I asked how often they wash their hands they laughed and said when they look dirty. As a nurse from America part of me died a little inside. Upon further investigation I discovered that the doctors and nurses did have a supply of alcohol based hand gel at one time, but when the supply ran out it was never restocked.

Addressing the issue of not following orders was a little more difficult and I still feel as though no one was able to give me a reason as to why or where the breakdown in communication was occurring. During rounds the one of the two nurses on duty in the female ward rounded on patients with us. The physician wrote an order to change an antibiotic; the nurse was there and saw the order but never did anything about it. The following day the antibiotic had never been changed. So the nurse knew about the order but never followed through, why? I suppose you could write it off as laziness or lack of reasonability, but that seem like the easy way out.  I am sure that laziness and complacency play a role in orders being missed but I think it also has to do with the lack of follow-up by the doctors, the fact that there is repercussion to not following orders, and there is limited understanding of cause and effect. I have found that across the board culturally Zambians do not understand that their actions can have a direct impact on something or someone else; for every action there is a positive or negative reaction. For example by not giving the patient the proper medication or not drawing the lab sample the health and overall outcome of that patient is compramised. And finally the nurses and doctors are not invested in the patient population. The government mandates that nurses and doctors have to survive two years in a rural clinic, therefore there are stationed on average 300km from their families and are unfamiliar with the culture and people of the region that they are serving.  

The majority of the patients that I rounded on today suffered from perceived malaria, but once again the patients were being treated without a positive confirmation of the disease. The breakdowns in this chain are obvious and numerous. The doctors do not always write the order to test for malaria, despite being federally mandated, the nurses do not always follow the orders, the lab samples do not always make their way to the lab, the lab does not always process the samples, the results do not always get relayed back to the appropriate areas, and the results are at times inaccurate due to lab error, faulty machines, and wrong patient labels. I’m not even sure where to start with that one.

I did spend a short time in the clinic today where a police officer brought a two year old girl suspected of being sexually assaulted by her 14 year old cousin. The physician upon examination determined that there were not obvious signs of sexual assault; there was no bruising or lacerations or signs of trauma, and the lab results for STIs came back negative. I was relieved but I was also curious as to the legal processing regarding sexual assault involving two minors. I discovered that at 14 you are not considered a minor and he would have been tried as an adult. The officer also informed me that the parents can also be considered legally at fault for not monitoring their children more closely. The whole encounter kind of made my skin crawl. I wanted to go home and take a shower, but being in Zambia with no running water nearby let alone a shower I did the next best thing and took a ice cold bucket bath. Woot!

May 30th


Just in case any of you were wondering it is possible to microwave a chocolate cake. That is really all I did today. 

May 29th


So today marked my first solo trip from the capital Lusaka to Solwezi; a total of 600 km. I completed the trip in 6 cars/ trucks in only 7 hours. I figure this was a vast improvement from the 12 hours it took Ellen and I to go the same distance last time. I road in a car with a Chinese man who spoke no English, but seemed to really like fish since he kept stopping on the side the road to buy them from different vendors. I think in the hour I spent with him he bought a total of 12 fish; the freshness of the fish I feel is questionable because there was no water nearby.  I also got a hitch from a South African trucker.  Much to my surprise he was not racist; the first and only South African I have met who did not care either way if a white women was to marry a black man.  On the risk of making a gross stereotype I thought that just about all white South Africans were racist, but happily I was proven wrong. As the gentleman so eloquently put it “there is way to much shit in this world to give a damn about who is marrying who, let’s try solving something that actually matters for a change.”

We are fast approaching burn season in Zambia. This is the ever so fun season where the whole nation is set on fire.  It is tradition to burn all the elephant grass that lines the road ways and fields. There are so many fires that the air becomes heavy with smoke and ash; an asthmatics death trap. Walking down the road with a wall of fire on either side of you can almost send you running to a church to avoid an eternity of fire and brimstone. It can also make you walk a lot faster.  The reasoning behind this fiery inferno is unclear. Some say they burn it to catch the field mice, some say to reduce the amount of snakes, others say they do it because their parents did and they are just too lazy to cut it down.  Ill I know is that they are slowing poisoning the soil; leaching toxins into the ground and making the overall landscape ugly.

Tuesday, June 5, 2012

May 28th


Failed home remedy number one. Jane and I had the brilliant idea to deep condition our hair from a homemade recipe. A recipe that we made up at home. We bought some bananas off the street, picked some avocados off the ground, and mashed it all up with some oil olive, egg, and sugar. With many fits of laughter we loaded our hair with the sticky, chunky, gooey, slimy concoction. Chunks of avocado and banana kept sliding between our fingers and off of our heads into the freshly cleaned tub with surprisingly loud splatting noises.  Looking in the mirror it appeared as though someone had emptied the contents of their stomach on my head. It may have all work out according to plan if the water in Jane’s apartment hadn’t suddenly stopped working and if it hadn’t stopped working for 5 hours. By the 3rd hour the smell of warm egg and rotting bananas was being to make me nauseous. By the 4th hour the mixture had melted and started to run down my neck and face in a greenish oily slime, and the white plastic bag tied around my head trying to keep the “conditioner” off Jane’s apartment had turned a concerning shade of green and had become to radiate an alarming amount of heat. So being resourcefully Zambians we tied scarves around ours heads and set off down the street to the Peace Corps Headquarters. Fifteen minutes later we arrive at the house jumped into the shower only to find that our homemade conditioner did not only fail to condition our hair it had seemed to make our hair even drier and dirtier than when we started. It took three shampoos and two intense combings to get at least the big chunks of banana and avocado out of my hair. Every time I turn my head I get the feeling that I am surrounded by rotting bananas. On the upside I learned that walking down the street with a huge scarf covering your head in Zambia can earn you the title of African Goddess by some of the locals.  

May 27th


Jane and I ventured to the city market and the Sunday market today. The two markets could not have been more different. The Sunday market has mainly artwork such as bowls, masks, painting, jewelry, and wooden carvings. This is where I had my first experience bartering and I wound up buying a painting that I had no intention of buying. I learned my lesson though and I’ll be ready next time! The city market is similar to the market in Solwezi but on steroids. There are rows and rows of venders selling fish; dried fish, fresh fish, old fish, smelly fish. Rows of people selling all kinds of meat and to be honest most of the time I don’t even know what kind of meat it was and I was a little afraid to ask. People selling shoes; a lot of left shoes, I am not so sure what you do if you want a pair of shoes. People selling cosmetics, electronics, vegetables, drinks, animals; you name it chances are you can find it there. I didn’t get conned into buying anything at this market though.

May 26th


Today was a day of firsts; not that that is out of the ordinary in Zambia since everything I am doing is new to me. Today I took my first bus ride in Zambia. On a whim I decided to head down to Lusaka with Jane to get a tour of the capital from a resident. The bus ride was uneventful although I did get charged to pee in the bathroom. I feel as though if I am going to pay to use the bathroom you could at least supply a toilet seat and some toilet paper, but maybe my standards are still too high. 

I also had my first real ice cream in Zambia; it was heavenly. And I had my first exposure to Ethiopian food. Six of us went to this little hole in the wall restaurant; a place that everyone knew of but had no idea where it was. The address online is “on the road going to town, near the Christian music store, but behind the lodge;” just to make sure that I am getting my point across that is the address not directions. We are seated in the restaurant and after informing the waiter that it is our first time here, she pulls the menus from our hands and rushes away to find the owner. She soon returns with this large beautiful Ethiopian woman wearing a floor length leopard print gown/moo moo. She coos at us in broken English then disappears returning an hour later with the largest plate of food that I have ever seen. The enormous platter in lined with bread that more resembles and thin spongy pancake. On top of the pancake sponge are mounds of ten different dishes ranging from beef to chickpeas to curries veggies. Ethiopian food like the Zambian nshema is to be eaten with your hands; the sponge like bread is used as the utensil to scoop up the different dishes. It was not all that sanitary but it was extremely delicious. I did become a little nervous when the owner came back round after she noticed that we had stopped eating. We explained to her that we were full, but she replied “No it is ok, you can keep eating it will all come right out of you anyways! Eat, eat, eat more!” I am happy to report that no such issues have arisen yet. 

May 25th


So today had to be one of the most amazing days of my life. I got to spend the day with our closest relatives, chimpanzees. Little fin fact: Chimpanzees and humans share 98.9% of the same DNA. The chimp walk took place in the morning. The owner/ founder, a little 80 something year old lady walking with a cane, greeted us in the morning with a huge smile and led us to a small room where we put on coveralls, took off all jewelry, clips, and anything shiny, and loaded our pockets with cookies, biscuits, and peanuts. We had to quickly sign our life way stating that if the chimps were to beat us up, pulled our hair, or bit off our fingers we could not sue them. Luckily I still have all my fingers and I am only sporting the normal amount of bruises typical with being a Bendroth.

The chimp walk took about two hours. You are placed in an enclosed area, about 5 acres, with 6 chimps. You can feed them, hug them, play with them, kiss them, and tickle them. The chimps are truly like little humans with bigger mouths and longer arms. They smile, and play, and babysit; they are on birth control, they take the same antibiotics that humans do, they use tools, and they can show emotion. One of the chimps named Cindy, had a thing for ground nuts (peanuts); she would search through your pockets throwing the cookies on the ground to get to the ground nuts. When she found one she would grin and crack it open with her teeth eat the nut and throw away the shell. I discovered that if I held onto the ground nuts I could ask her for a kiss. She would stick out her lips then stick out her hand waiting for her reward. Yes I kissed a chimp ok!

The fact that these chimps are so interactive with humans is somewhat controversial but the revenue generated from the chimp walk helps keep the facility running. The rest of the chimpanzees living in Chimfunshi are considered wild since their only interaction with humans is during feeding. The place is huge! It is home to more the 150 chimpanzees. Over all wicked awesome day!

Sunday, June 3, 2012

May 24th


Myself and two other girls caught a ride to the Chimpanzee refuge today (the name I cannot spell and you cannot pronounce so I am not even going to try). It is 17km off of the main road so it was lucky that we were in a Peace Corps cruiser and the driver was easily guilted into driving us the whole way. At first glance the chimp place was not much to look at. It was composed of a circular compound with bunk houses off to each side, there was the mess tent, and showers, but no physical evidence that this was the second largest chimpanzee refuge in the world second to Jane Goodall’s in Tanzania. We arrived too late in the day to do the chimp walk so we will do it first thing in the morning. I plan to spend the evening drinking wine (yes again mom), exploring the compound, and hanging out with my new set of Peace Corps friends. 

May 23rd


I spent today at the Peace Corps house in Solwezi. My plan was to get a ride back to the village with the Peace Corps cruiser, but I received an invitation to go to a chimpanzee refuge tomorrow so I decided to chill. What a tough choice! The Peace Corps house is set up very much like a hostel. There are dorm rooms with bunk beds, there is a bar, a common area, a kitchen, a bathroom, a shower, and a whole bunch for crazy ass people. When I say crazy I do not mean this in a negative way; I mean who am I to be calling the kettle black? I am pretty sure that my sanity has been called into question more than once. Although there is rumor of a volunteer killing and skinning and eating a cat in his village, which may categorize him as off his rocker. But anyways I spent the evening drink wine, eating a large family style dinner, hanging out with some fellow Americans, and inhaling more than my share of second hand smoke. I think that somewhere in the Peace Corps hand book it states that in order to be successful Peace Corps volunteer you have to pick up chain smoking.

I cannot recall if I mentioned this before but the electricity in Solwezi can be somewhat unreliable. It has a tendency to turn off right when you need it the most. For example when you are making dinner and just put something in the oven or when you just get put shampoo in your hair in the shower or when you have just taken a dump; all of these are really inopportune times to have the power fail and therefore the water fail. For all of you who have experienced a blackout and I know 99.9% of you have it is almost like a little MacIver is born in all of us. We fine the most ridiculous/creative ways of dealing with our problems and it almost always involves duct tape. Blackouts (the power kind not the alcohol induced kind) can also add a sense of misery to any evening; with everyone walking around the house with headlamps blaring you never know who you are looking at due the bright beacon of light shining from their forehead which leaves you blinded long after their light is gone. Each person is trying to out blind the other, most of the time by accident; but I have come to the realization that headlamps are not meant for socializing it is more on an independent sport.

May 22nd


So another night spent with my rodent friends. I cannot get over how noisy they are. I question whether they are playing racket ball above my head or not.  I suppose all living creatures need their stress relief and these little brats like to do it at 0300 in the morning right above my head.

The house that I stay in Solwezi although plentiful in the rodent department is somewhat lacking in the kitchen area. For example there is a refrigerator that is almost always empty, there is a microwave, a toaster and a two burner hot plate placed on top of an old cast iron oven.  Also crammed into this 10 by 10 room are a washer and drier. All of these things I do consider to be a luxury compared to the village, but when trying to cook a meal to feed on average five people with three girls in the kitchen and only one electrical outlet things can get a bit cramped. I would like to have a word with the electrician who worked on this house. Putting only one electrical socket in each room especially the kitchen is not the most intuitive thing to do. The light switches for some bedrooms are located in the adjacent bedroom or ten feet down the hall or there no light switch at all and the light stays on until the bulb burns out. Also the fact that the bathtub nozzles electrocute you every time you turn on and off the water furthers my skepticism of the electrician. But to be honest there most likely was never an electrician just somebody with a how to book.
Ellen and I made apple crisp in the microwave. Yes it can be done and it was delicious.  I have taken to making pancakes from scratch; and from scratch I mean I just dump some ingredients in a bowl and pray that it is edible. Today was the third day that I have made the pancakes and so far it has been a success. No one seems to have died from them nor has anyone become gravely ill. I like to mark my success with low standards; good pancakes because no one died.

Zambian Pancakes:
1.5 cup flour
2 T sugar
1T baking powder
1T cinnamon
½ c oil
1 c water (Maybe more or less. Add enough to make it pancake batter consistency)
Pinch of salt

Disclaimer: I have never actually measured anything so in all honesty that could be totally wrong. If anyone is brave enough to try it let me know how it turns out.

Tuesday, May 22, 2012

May 21st


Not much went on today I am sorry to say. Ellen and I went to renew my visa for another 30 days. We walked to the Peace Corps house. I took a bath. I made macaroni and cheese and homemade ice cream for dinner. And a giant rat ran over my foot; I am embarrassed to say I screamed like a little girl.                                                                          

May 20th


Ellen, Justin, and I went on a motor boat ride today with some of his mining friends. There is a dam about 20km north of Solwezi. They claim that there are not crocodiles in the dam (yet), but I refused to take their word for it. Ellen and I chose not to go swimming, but we got to cruise around in a boat on the water for a day which was fabulous until we ran out of petrol. It was exactly like a scene from the movies. The boat shudders and stalls, everyone thinks the driver is joking as he tries unsuccessfully to start the engine and the realization that we are stranded in the middle of a lake only sets in after two other men attempt to start the boat thinking that maybe they hold some sort of magic engine starting powers that the other men lacked.  Also two separate people had to check the gas tank just to double check that it was indeed empty; that maybe the first person did not look carefully enough at the completely empty gas can. What does that say about humanity that we are unwilling to believe something despite all the glaring evidence? Anyways, after about 45 minutes of paddling with arms, legs, the top of the cooler, and a random piece of the boat we were able to get close enough to shore to signal the only other boat on the entire lake that we need assistance. Since I am writing this and you are reading this I am sure that it will come as no surprise that we made it out alive. 

May 19th


After only one night back in the village I made my way back to Solwezi to meet up with Ellen. I have successfully survived a week alone in Zambia, even though I was not in the village the entire time I am still counting it. I received a prearranged ride from Brain, a Canadian working for a small company that helps villagers rent to own hammer mills to process maize.  I almost felt spoiled riding in a minivan, in the front seat, with a seat belt on, and with control over the stereo. It seems almost surreal that I own one of the motorized vehicles in the States and I can drive it whenever and wherever I please.

We decide to make a detour to the Mutunda Falls just outside of Solwezi to get a castle (the better of the crappy beers in Zambia). It is advertised as a resort and for Zambia standards it is high class and by high class I mean they have flush toilets although they are lacking toilet paper and toilet seats it is still a step up from a hole in the ground. I think my standards are waning. The falls were beautiful, peaceful, and refreshing. I did not realize how much I love the calming roar of running water until it has been absent from my life for several weeks.  This was the first body of water that I have seen since being in Africa. Although weary of crocodiles I could not resist the urge to kick off my shoes and let my feet dangle in the water.

Later Ellen and Justin decide that it is time that I experience the Titanic, a night club in Solwezi.  Prior to entering the club Ellen gives me a lesson in what I like to call defensive dancing. It pretty much consists of putting your arms up with your elbows sticking out to beat away unwanted dance partners, which in the Titanic is everyone. Being the only white girls in the club we did draw a lot of attention, but I was able to implement Ellen’s dance strategy with enormous success. The Titanic is setup similar to a dance studio with mirrors all around the perimeter club. I felt rather uncomfortable seeing my reflection dancing, but I appeared to be the only one taking issue with it. Looking around the club Zambians everywhere were watching themselves dance in the mirrors. I don’t mean like the occasional glance in the mirror, I mean they are standing dead in front of the mirror, making eye contact with themselves, and dancing. I think I may have seen a few wink and smile at themselves. 

May 18th


I was able to hunt down one of the doctors this morning and I followed him on his rounds through the women’s ward. This doctor conducted his assessment s of each patient with even less actual assessment of the patient. He did not have a stethoscope and discharged an asthmatic patient without assessing her lungs. He also diagnosed a patient with pneumonia purely on the fact that she had a cough, a fever, and she sounded a “bit rattley.” A patient with presumed meningitis secondary to malaria he deemed as having increased intracranial pressure because she was vomiting, but neglected to complete a neurological exam. Patients were diagnosed and treated for malaria strictly on the fact that they patient complained of headache and fever. There is a federal mandate that states that any patient with fever and headache must be screened for malaria that does not translate into blindly treating for malaria. This hospital is lacking many things but it does have a functioning lab with the ability to conduct the rapid diagnostic test for malaria as well and a blood smear confirmation. Using malaria as a catch all diagnosis is contributing to the rise of drug resistant malaria. When I asked the doctor why he was treating a patient for malaria even though all the tests were negative, he stated that he did not know what else it could be so it was better than doing nothing. Turns out the patient was just pregnant.  

There was a patient in the male ward who had ulcer on his foreskin that the doctor could not diagnosis. He stated that it was not syphilis or a fungal infection. I suggested that he test the patient for other STIs; specifically herpes and I joking mentioned that they should just circumcise the patient. He scheduled the patient for a circumcision later that day since he lacked the ability to test for herpes. Seeing as how herpes is a systemic infection chopping off the foreskin is going to do little to help this patient; not to mention that he is also HIV positive with a low T cell count and will have trouble healing post-surgery.  Oh and for all you men out there this hospital does not have an anesthesiologist so they conduct circumcisions with the patient wide awake with just a local anesthetic.

I feel as though I have spent a lot of time criticizing the hospital. I do not want to belittle the work that they are doing. I know that they are helping people and making a difference it is just hard not to notice all the things that should and need to be improved. It is easy for me as an American who is only going to be here for a month more to point my finger at the flaws, but how much is that actually going to help them. To be honest though I am at a total loss as to how to create a positive change in such a short time. I think I shall start with the lack of mosquito nets.

I only worked a half day today so that I could spend one night back in the village before meeting Ellen in Solwezi. When I made it to Nyansonso I was greeted with a cloud of children running towards me, hugging me, and taking my hand. I don’t think I have ever received such a warm welcome in my life. The joy that these children bring me after a few short weeks is amazing. I spent the evening teaching the kids how to ballroom dance. They thought I was crazy but they each wanted a chance to dance with me and fell over laughing every time I spun the around or tried to dip them. We played Frisbee and jump rope. I was sorry when the sun went down.

May 17th


This morning I could not find the doctors to do rounds with them. I suppose I am not all that surprised. I spent my morning in the Fetal Maternal Clinic. Thursdays the staff conducts an antenatal clinic. I was pleasantly surprised as to how many women/girls with their significant others attended; there was about 20 couples and 2 single women/girls. I feel as though I cannot categorize pregnant 14 year olds as women yet, even though they are obviously sexually active and reached puberty. The staff and I spent the morning drawing blood, giving tetanus shots, screening for malaria and anemia, measuring fundal height, listening to fetal heart rates with a fetal scope, determining the lay of the fetus, giving out prenatal vitamins and iron, checking blood pressure, and weighing the expectant mothers. The majority of the women/girls were in their mid to late 2nd trimester; with no way to know for sure if you are pregnant in the village women usually wait until they can feel the baby move before coming to the clinic. Quickening (first movement) can happen as early as 16 weeks (I think).  Ideally women should be getting prenatal vitamins during their first trimester, but currently I am happy that people even show up!

I made a chocolate cake for dinner. It was heaven and I usually don’t even like cake.

May 16th


I finally got a tour of the hospital. The nursing officer was only a hour late, I saw this as a good sign. I have started going everywhere with a book now. You never can count on anyone showing up on time so you might as well pass the time reading. I have also started carrying toilet paper with me where ever I go. Although some places actually have flush toilets chances are they will not have toilet paper. Always good to have a stash with you at all times. Anyways the chief nursing officer took me around to all the different wards and introduced me to everyone we saw. Introductions in Zambia are long and drawn out. To have a proper introduction in Zambia I have found that are certain criteria you have to meet. First off the greeting has to be at least 90 seconds long, you need to include the person’s full name, where they are from, what they are doing here, why they are doing it, and your own person view of the person. Needless to say the tour took 2 hours and since the hospital consists of only 4 different wards this was an impressive use of time.

The hospital is composed of a female ward, a male ward, a labor and delivery ward, and a pediatric ward. Each ward is in a separate building running parallel to each other. The wards are large open spaces with beds lining each wall. There are no curtains and no dividers between each bed. There is one bathroom at the end of the ward with no door. The bed frames are spaced less than four feet apart from each other; they are made of steel and have two inch thick body fluid stained mattresses covered with blankets and sheets that the patients have to provide themselves. Typically patients cannot afford sheets so they sleep directly on the mattress with a chitenge covering them for warmth. The air smells faintly of vomit and urine and bleach. The windows are open with no screens; flies and bugs are free to come and go as they please. Unusually the flies prefer to stay past their welcome.  There are signs on the doors promoting the use of mosquito nets; “Do your part in stopping malaria, sleep under and mosquito net every night!” There are not mosquito nets on any of the beds.  Oh and there is no power. I feel as though there are too many differences between American hospitals and the Mufumbwe rural hospital to bother listing them all. I would be been off listing the ways in which they are alike; there are patients, they are sick, there are doctors and there are nurses. That about sums it up.

I spent most of my morning in the pediatric ward doing rounds with the one of two doctors stationed at the hospital. The doctor would round on each patient, ask the mother a few questions about the child (no fathers were present), review the vital signs, conduct a maximum of 30 second assessment and then scribble down a few orders on the medical card which is a single piece of paper in a yellow folder. For those who are unfamiliar with vital signs they typically consist of heart rate, blood pressure, temperature, oxygen saturation, and a pain assessment which are assessed every 2 to 8 hours in the States. The only vital sign monitored in the pediatric unit was temperature once every 24 hours if the nurse remembered.  The orders along with the vital sign seemed to be viewed as optional by some of the nursing staff. There were several orders from the previous day that were never completed, labs that were never drawn, medications that were never given, and dressing changes that were not completed appropriately. At this point I have only observed for a day so I cannot say with any certainty where the system break down occurred, but it glaringly obvious that the current system is not functioning effectively. It is also difficult to determine the long term effects of the failed system since the documentation and record keeping is relatively nonexistent. One can assume that several patients have suffered from delayed treatment at best and death at worse. Scary.

The pediatric unit is setup the similarly to the men and women wards. The beds are a bit smaller, but the mattresses are just as stained, there are not mosquito nets, and flies are everywhere. There are no chairs for the mothers to sit in, in fact there is no place for the mothers to sit, rest, or sleep anywhere on the hospital grounds except for outside. You can see families cooking outside on small fires, sleeping, and doing laundry.
There was a child in the pediatric unit who suffered from second degree burns covering 30% of her body. She had knocked a pot of boiling water off the fire; it spilled down her face, her arms, trunk, genitalia, and legs. I have never worked in a burn unit but I do recall from school that burns can cause severe dehydration, and they are at extremely high risk for infection, and the pain can be unbearable. I know that some other metabolic processes go on involving electrolytes, capillary permeability, and fluid shifts but I cannot recall the specifics at this time (sorry Professor Huber). The child was lying on a stained mattress with a chitenge covering her body, no mosquito net, and in a room with many other sick and infectious children. I did not observe a single person wash their hands when moving from one patient to another, in fact I did not even see a sink or a basin to do so. The dressing changes were conducted without gloves, without sterile dressings, and without any pain medication. I am embarrassed to say that I had a hard time staying in the room while the child wailed and her 9 month pregnant mother tried to smooth her. The doctor was well aware of the dangers that this child faced, but he said with a shrug “we can only do what we can do.” Fortunately the child’s wounds appear to be clean and healing nicely, she is afebrile, and her white blood cell count is normal; here hoping she stays stable. I am hard time comparing this care with American standards; it seems horribly unfair that because of the country you were born in you are deprived safe and effective health care.

I spent the afternoon diagnosing patients with the other doctor at the walk in clinic. Apparently an American nursing education qualifies you as a doctor in rural Zambia. I have found that in Zambia there are three diagnosis favored by physicians; the first is malaria, then pregnancy, then peptic ulcer disease. If you don’t have one of those then it might be meningitis, if is not that then you are shit out of luck. Skeptical about what I will see tomorrow. 

Monday, May 21, 2012

May 15th


Yesterday I finally received a call from the Mufumbwe Boma Hospital! Hurray! They wanted me to arrive at the hospital at 8 am for a tour. Having decided to hitch to the Boma this morning and not the night before I woke up at 530 to be on the side of the road by dawn; this was not the best decision I could have made. I waited for 3 hours before even seeing my first car and it was going in the wrong direction. I finally made it to the hospital by 1100, which in Zambia time I actually was early. I had a short meeting with the Chief Nursing Officer who told me I should come back at 1400 for a tour. !400 turned into tomorrow morning at 0800. It was all ok since I got to have an egg sandwich at the only “restaurant” in town. The term restaurant is used loosely because it is just a kitchen with a single stove that some lady makes 3 different dishes a day that sit on the counter all day in buffet warming trays.  I didn’t care though it was bread and eggs I will gladly pay the consequences later, but so far so good. My digestive system appears to be functioning normally.

I had my first encounter cooking rape today, horrible name but delicious green leafy vegetable. It is a cross between swiss chard and kale.  I think my body is happy for a change from the massive amount of cabbage I have been consuming.

May 14th


Second day alone in the village and I am still alive. I finished all of my chores by 1030. I never thought that I would say this but I wish the chores took longer. I feel this strange sort of anxiety that I should be doing something productive, but I am alone in a village in Zambia and I don’t speak the language very well, so my options are a bit limited. I did go for a two hour walk along the road. I managed to walk far enough away from the village that I was completely alone. When you are alone in the village you are not actually alone; there are people everywhere. All hours of the day you can hear them talking, laughing, and singing. But today for the first time since I have been in Zambia I was truly alone; I did not see a single soul or hear someone talk for over an hour. It is amazing how peaceful silence can be, but is also amazing how used you get to the gentle constant chatter of the villagers.

In Ellen’s absence the children have begun to test me. They come constantly asking for bubble gum, or to play Uno, or to have their nails painted. Pepio Bubble, they cry! Ellen has made it clear to the village children that nail painting and Uno are special treats and bubble gum will only be distributed when they have done a chore. I feel like I am constantly saying, ine, nawkana (no I refuse)! I feel like a mean mommy but I do not want to undo the culture that Ellen worked so hard to create.

Today I also observed a little baby teething. In the states the children would have brightly colored teething rings that would be swiftly disinfected if it landed on the ground outside. Here the child was chewing on what looked like the top to an old nail polish bottle.  She was strapped to the back of her older sister happily gumming a piece of trash when the toy inevitably fell into the dirt the sister picked it up and handed it back to the baby covered in dirt. Similarly I have seen small babies playing with old soda bottles, plastic bags, and bits of trash they find on the ground; the mothers hardly seem to notice. I do not mean to imply that the mothers are careless or that they do not love their children; I just think that it is a different culture combine with limited education on choking hazards and bacteria and limited resources. I am sure that if the women had access to teething rings they would happily use them; however that is hardly a priority in village life. 

May 13th


So first off Happy Birthday to Becca. Today will mark my first full day alone in the village. I believe that it was a success so far, I did not burned Ellen’s hut down which I feel is a good accomplishment since Ellen says it does happen more often than it should. One volunteer took a candle into their mosquito net; fortunately I do have a little more sense than that (most of the time). So far today I have washed dishes, washed laundry, wept the hut, knocked termite tunnels off of hut walls, re-swept, pumped water and carried in back on my head, colored with the children and played Uno, and touched a dead bush baby that one of the children had killed with a sling shot. The poor thing would have looked like a cute stuffed animal had it not been for the bulging bloody eyeball protruding from its face. After completing all of these tasks it was only 1300. Time in the village moves in a bizarre manner; it is not linear. The mornings seem to go by quickly, the afternoons seem to drag on forever and then the evenings fly by. Days seem long here but weeks pass quickly; the progression of days seems even longer when you are by yourself.

As I am writing this by candle light there is a large moth fluttering around the candle flame. It is kind of morbid by I kept hoping that it will fly through the flame and catch on fire. Much to my disturbing delight the moth zipped through the flame wings ablaze crashed into the hut wall only to be caught by a hunger wall spider and eaten for dinner. The wall spiders and I have a sort of arrangement. They stay on the wall eat bugs and I will let them live. If they leave the wall for any moment they will die. So far I have not had to kill a wall spider. I have actually grown a fondness for them; I feel as though they keep me company and the evil that I know and see is much better than the one that I don’t. I am afraid that if they are not there something grosser and creepier will takes its place. Apparently I am just going to miss the scorpion spider season. 

Sunday, May 13, 2012

May 12th


I spent the beginning of the day in the Boma attending a celebration for International Nurses Day! Yeah go nurses! True to Zambian form the celebration started 4 hours after it was supposed to. It is a good thing I have learned the art of waiting and of never expecting something to start or someone to show up when it/they are supposed to.  When things finally got underway there was a parade with nurses from all the different clinics and hospitals in the area. They were carrying banners, shouting, and singing. The ceremony commenced with a very lengthy introduction of everyone on stage; there were 30 people. And then each person who got up to speak had to thank everyone on stage for coming. I am not too sure what was said but there was a lot hand shaking and back patting amongst the higher ups. There was a short reprieve when what I thought was a man dressed like a roster began to gyrate and shake to the beat of drums. The whole scene was quite captivating; the drums and the shaking hips. Soon the lawn was filled with nurses and children dancing and singing! Best Nurses Day ever.

I feel as though I have to take a moment to mention the children. Watching them assemble is like the scene from Alfred Hitchcock’s the Birds. You look over and there are just a handful of children watching you. Five minutes later their numbers have doubled. The number of children keeps increasing each time you look over and each child is staring intently at you. It is really quite impressive the attention you get just because you are white. By the end of the ceremony there was a line of children with their backs to the stage sitting watching me. I felt like a zoo creature. It also made it really hard to do anything discretely like pick your wedge or your nose. Any move you made there were 30 sets of eyes watching you. At first I thought that it was just a different culture and I would have to get used to the stares; but unfortunately it is not. In Zambian culture it is considered very rude to stare, but apparently all bets are off when there is a mazungo. I reason why to view this as unfortunate is that I could overlook the staring if I thought it was a cultural thing but knowing that they are disregarding their own cultural rules to stare at me can get extremely irritating after 4 hours. Also you start to feel really self-conscious. 

May 11th


Today I hitch hiked to the Boma all by myself.  I feel like a big kid now! I am going to be spending the next week alone in the village. It should be an interesting challenge, but I am excited. I wish I knew more Kaonde; without Ellen here to translate for me it should make for an interesting week. My vocab mainly consists of “good morning, how are you, I am fine, and who farted?” The children taught me the last one and they double over laughing so of course I use it all the time. It good to know that my maturity level has not advanced very much.

May 10th


After today I think I may be known in the village as the crazy mazungo who put a puppy in a chitenge and carried it around like a baby. Typically chitenges are used to hold real babies, well actually that is just one of the many uses of a chitenge, but I doubt that it has ever been used to carry a puppy. The women were doubled over with laugher, calling on their other friends to come and bear witness to the crazy American with a puppy on her back. The puppy was really cute.

On our way home from the clinic today Ellen and I passed by one of the churches in the village. The children were having a self-directed children’s choir rehearsal. They sang in rounds and harmonies with no direction from an adult and no help from a musical instrument. Their angelic voices were quite moving floating through the air in soft rhythmic tones. I don’t think I will see children in the States voluntarily singing church hymns with no adult direction or supervision.

May 9th


Ellen and I decided to bake today; things did not really go according to plan. We tried to make beer bread. The bread did not rise. We cooked it anyways. It was quite dense. Each slice weighed as much as a small child. We ate it anyways. Then we tried to bake a cobbler with canned apricots and pears. Someone may have put baking soda instead of baking powder into the dough (that person shall remain nameless). We were also missing some key ingredients such as eggs, butter, and milk so we switched water for milk, soy bean oil for butter, and extra sugar for eggs. And yes I do know that sugar is not a substitute for eggs, but we were hoping that if it was sweet enough we would not care. I don’t think all the wishing, hoping, or praying in the world could have saved this cobbler, but we ate it anyways.

Trying to restore a sense of accomplishment Ellen and I decided to do something productive that we knew we could not screw up; we limed her walls. This involves taking lime (not the citrus fruit) and mixing it with water then taking a cloth and rubbing it on her walls. It is slow, messy, mildly caustic to your skin and a few spiders may have lost their lives, but now a larger portion of Ellen’s hut has white walls.

May 8th


I visited the clinic bright an early this morning to bear witness to the under-five vaccination clinic. Per District Health Commissioner the clinic would be stalked with the appropriate supplies, including the vaccines, to vaccinate children under-five. The clinic has no electricity and therefore no refrigeration system which makes storing vaccines in the clinic impossible. Silly me to think that the supplies would arrive prior to the opening of the clinic at 0800. I did not factor in Zambian time which is on average 3- 4 hours off. The vaccines arrived at 1130.

Ellen and I held a meeting for the Safe Motherhood Action Group (SMAG) and the Neighborhood Health Committee (NHC) in hopes to motivate them into action. Both groups are responsible for spreading education among the villagers, they are supposed to motivate the community in take the appropriate steps to improve health and safety within the village. Even though each group has a list of “active” members the groups have not met in several months, nor have they been “motivating” their communities. The SMAG and the NHC have slightly different goals and responsibilities. For example the SMAG is supposed to encourage mother to get prenatal care, they are supposed to encourage mothers to go the clinic when in labor, and they are supposed to encourage mothers to seek out family planning. The NHC is supposed to do community inspections to ensure that the grass is slashed, children are sleeping under mosquito nets, and bathrooms are located an appropriate distance from the hut. Ellen and my goals were to have each group make a constitution and create an action plan for their first intervention within the community. Unfortunately I felt like most of the people showed up to watch the mazungos talk, but here’s hoping. We scheduled a follow-up meeting with the groups in a month. 

May 7th


Ellen and I made the journey to the hospital again in hopes of politely harassing some higher up people into letting me help in the hospital. We spend one hour in the pharmacy playing solitary waiting for the district medical officer to get out of a meeting; then we were ushered to another office where we waited for another 2.5 hours. Ellen is now a master at Luxor, a computer game. Anyways when we were finally able to meet with the BMO he took down my name, number, a copy of my diploma and my college transcript. He told me that they are very short staffed and that they would be happy to have me. He promised a call by the end of the day. It is now 2100, I am not holding my breath.

Ellen and I hitched back from the Boma and made it just in time to sit in on a meeting with the newly appointed District Health Commissioner and all the head men of Nyansonso. From what Ellen was able to translate for me the head men were getting a bit of a tongue lashing for not being role models in the community. They have the power in influence and to spread knowledge that would help the community to thrive but they have done very little to spur progress. I’ll keep my fingers crossed that her words will inspire some forward thinking/ motivation for maybe a week.

Oh yeah and I have a cold. My boyfriend sneezed in my face. We are taking some time apart.

Thursday, May 10, 2012

May 6th


Today I went for another run. This time I was accompanied by a 13 year old named Sharon. She ran with me on the pavement barefoot and in a skirt for 30 minutes. It put into perspective the American need for high tech and stylish workout clothes and shoes. It is a billion dollar industry, which I am sad to say I have bought into, that completely over rated and overvalued. The proof was running right beside me today with a big smile on her face. She had no fancy Nike sneakers or fashionable running shorts or sports bra; she was barefoot in a skirt!
Later Ellen and I hitched our way back to the Boma for a night of fun with some new Peace Corps volunteers. We spent the evening with electricity, but only until midnight which is when the whole town goes dark. The best part of all there was the shower! It had hot water and everything! The water pressure was barely more the trickle and it may have taken 15 minutes to get my hair even wet, but it was a shower and I was clean!!

May 5th


So I am going to retract my previous statement about all foods tasting delicious; that may have been a bit premature. Ellen’s Ba Mama brought over some bush meat for us today. I am not entirely sure what kind of animal it was, but it was hairy even without skin. It had the consistency of cat food and tasted like what I would imagine the bastard child of spam and gefilte fish would taste like.
To compensate for the awful bush meat experience Ellen and I decided to bake a cake with one of the girls in her compound. We made a vanilla cake over hot coals and it did not burn and it was amazing. My outdoor culinary skills are greatly improving. Next we shall tackle the task of baking bread!
I went for a run today. The concept seemed to confuse many of the villagers. They kept asking me where I was going. When I would respond that I was just going for a run and that I had no destination in mind they looked at me like I was off my rocker, which I maybe.  I also delighted many of the village women today by carrying the 10 liter jug of water on my head back the compound. Although I was put to shame by the 13 year old carrying a 20 liter jug on her head going nearly twice as fast as I was. 

May 4th


So I am going to take a moment to discuss the bathroom situation here in the village. There is a brick shelter with a straw roof and a tear drop shaped hole in the cement floor; the thickness of the floor is questionable. The hole appears to be 10-15 feet deep. I try not to jump for fear that the floor will cave in and I will be stuck in a big hole of shit; not that I have many reasons to be jumping in the bathroom, but you never know.  There are not many things that I am afraid of one of them is being stuck in a hole of pooh and the other is spiders; this bathroom has both threats. In the ceiling there is Vladimir, a mean looking baseball sized spider. Each time I enter the shelter I pull back the plastic doorway, peek my head in and locate Vladimir and keep my eye on him as a squat over the hole. If you have ever tried to pee into a hole as a woman then you know that there is a science behind the process. Through careful evaluation I have discovered that there is no sure fire way to hit the hole consistently and constantly. You must constantly shift and change your weight to compensate for the change in pressure and direction; then just when you think you have it down it all goes to hell and you end up peeing on your leg and soaking the floor. The real trouble starts when you have to do number 1 and number 2. I’ll save you the explicit details, but believe me it takes concentration and skill. This bathroom is also the residence of many many flies who like to hide in the hole and the erupt with surprising force from the hole as soon as you squat over it leaving you with the feeling of little flying torpedoes ambushing your butt. This just further complicates the whole bathroom situation.
As for what we did today, Ellen and I completed our morning chores and then walked around the village meeting a greeting people. We visited the residence of a blind lady and her husband. We help her shell the kernels of corn/maize off the cob by hand so that it could be further dried then pounded into meal. The process of shelling maize is not all that involved; however it is very time consuming. It is estimated that the women in Zambia spend more time shelling maize each year than any other task. That is hundreds of hours of labor.
For dinner Ellen and I made our African version of shepherd’s pie with lentils, corn, cabbage, and instant mashed potatoes. I never thought instant mashed potatoes could be so amazing!! We rationed our chocolate for dessert. Ellen allows us to have three squares of chocolate at night. I find myself thinking of those three pieces of chocolate all day. Living in the village is like back packing; everything tastes amazing!

May 3rd


Ellen and I made the brave 80 kilometer journey to the Mufumbwe Boma (the down town of Ellen's district). I went to the hospital to inquire about volunteering or shadowing in an African hospital. The chief nursing officer appeared to be very excited and said that he would contact me by the end of the day. Ellen told me not to get my hopes up since it is Zambia and people work at their own pace. It is 2000 and still no phone call. I have found this to be the standard of practice in Zambia. Zambians will tell you what they think you want to hear to make you happy not what they actually want or what they will actually do. This results in miscommunications and minimal progress. 

May 2nd


Today we hitched back to Nyansonso from Solwezi. The hitch was very uneventful. I got to ride on a tire tractor for 2.5 hours. The children from Nyansonso ran to the truck as we were being dropped off to grab all of our bags and lug them back to Ellen's hut. A very small five year old was carrying my very large Osprey backpack; she was struggling under the weight of it, but shooed away anyone wanting to help. All I could see from my vantage point was my pack and two feet shuffling forward. She hulled my pack the 100 meters to the door of Ellen's hut with happy determination. Ellen and I swiftly got unpacked then went outside to play with the children. We played football with a ball made from a condom, plastic, and yarn. It worked surprisingly well, that is until the condom popped and they had to unravel the yarn and plastic to replace the broken condom. I fear that the majority of condoms used in this village are for footballs and not for safe sex.
While we were gone this weekend for the cost of ten dollars two village men build Ellen and I a mud brick bathing shelter. We no longer have to bath in view of all her villagers! We are high class now!!
The big excitement for the children came when I brought out the nail polish. I think I painted more fingernails bubble gum pink in 30 minutes than I have in my entire life. The majority of which were boys. It was rather funny to see flashes of bright pink on all of the children’s fingernails as they played. The paint did not last long on most children. One little two year old boy named Jeravy (he's my boyfriend) promptly stuck his fingers in his mouth and began chewing off the paint. He had little specks of pink paint all over his mouth and stuck in the river of snot coming from his nose.
Ellen and my excitement for the day came when the children brought us to see kabwas pichache or puppies!!! There were two litters of puppies in the village! They were adorable and quite noisy for their small size. The children found it hilarious that we were talking to and playing with the puppies. Dogs are viewed more as pests than anything else in the village. They are typically malnourished, covered with flees, and what I think are ticks or at least the African version of ticks and kicked/ beaten frequently. Ellen and I both cringe whenever we hear the sad yelp of the dog being kicked. But I suppose the people here do not have the luxury of having "pets".

May 1st


Ellen and I stay at her boyfriend’s house when we visit Solwezi. It feels like I am living in the lap of luxury; there is a flush toilet, a refrigerator, a hot plate, and a television, oh and monster sized rats that have domestic disputes above my head every night. I go to sleep praying that the aged leaking dry wall that separates me from the rodents holds and if that fails I pray that the misquote net will impede their ability to snuggle with me at night. So far there have been no unwelcome guests in my bed at night.
Did I mention that he also has a bath tub (no shower). Don’t yet too excited; this bath tub is used by six miners so it is constantly covered in a thick grimy slime. I think actually feel more dirty post bathing (which is saying something). For all of those concerned about my hygiene in the village I actually bath more in Africa than I do in the States.

April 30th


Ellen, Leanne, and I walked down to the market in Solwezi to get veggies and more chitenges (2 meters of material used as skirts, towels, backpacks, baby slings, curtains, etc. in the village). If you have never been to a market in a 3rd world country it can be quite an experience. There are many different smells, sounds, and sights; you can go into sensory overload. I recommend avoiding the fish section even in the cold season the fish stench hangs and saturates the air; you can taste it. There are vendors selling cups, bowls, flip-flops, vinyl flooring, chickens, cloth, oils, veggies, beer, and pre-own clothes (the list goes on). My personal favorites are the piles of caterpillars for sale; they are considered a treat in Zambia. I did have the fortunate experience of trying some; they were crunchy and kind of tasted like fish. Yum

Tuesday, May 1, 2012

April 29th


Today I was attached to the toilet. Oh joy! Note to self I should not eat red meat.

April 28


I have to take a moment to about the fact that Ellen and I baked a pumpkin cake over coals and it did not burn! And then we made orange glazed soya chucks, amazing! For those unfamiliar with soya chunks they are processed soy protein that look and taste like a sponge.  My outdoor culinary skills are improving.
Ellen, Leanne, and I hitched into town today. Spent the 2.5 hour drive in the back of a pick-up truck with a load of pumpkins singing any song we could remember at the top of our lungs. I lost my voice, but it was totally worth it. 

April 27


Today started much the same way the previous days did; going to fetch water in a cloud of children laughing and grasping our hands, washing the previous days dishes and washing our laundry. Ellen and I decided to go for a walk down the road. As usual we were stopped frequently to greet everyone we met on the road. I believe I successfully did not call anyone relish today although I did mess up the customary hand shake and clap. We walked about five kilometers and I did not see any wildlife besides butterflies and flies. Apparently the villagers will kill any animals that are in the area and eat them so there are literally no birds or monkeys or rodents around.
Ellen, Leanne (another PeaceCorps volunteer), and I visited the clinic this afternoon. The clinic is staffed by a single nurse. She is expected to work 6 days a week for 8 hours a day. Her house is located directly behind the clinic so if the clinic is not open and the villagers have an emergency they will knock on her door. This particular day she had been up all night with a laboring mother and is now taking care of a patient with bacterial meningitis and malaria. The blatant differences between health care in the US and in Africa were expected but are still shocking.  The nurse assesses, diagnoses, and treats patients completely independently; she will determine whether she can manage the patient in town or if they need to be shipped the 80km to the Boma for further treatment. I witnessed a patient come into the clinic describe several symptoms then leave with several pills in hand; no medical tests or physical examination were completed. The patient was in and out in 10 minutes.
The nurse and I discussed at the length the biggest challenges in providing healthcare in the village. The main one being that there is no accountability among the villagers to take responsibility for their own health.  Villagers will only seek out help once there is already a problem they will not take the appropriate measures to prevent disease or illness. For example surrounding the village is very tall grass which encourages the reproduction of mosquitos. The village has been educated over and over again that by slashing the grass it will reduce the mosquito levels and therefore reduce the incidence of malaria, but the grass is still there and villagers are still getting malaria.
 Secondly there is very little prenatal/antenatal care offered and perused by the villagers. Ideality pregnant women would come to the clinic to have their blood sugar monitored, blood pressure checked, weighed, obtain prenatal vitamins, screened for anemia,  and height of fundus measured. In reality the clinic has no blood pressure cuff (I did bring one with me), no measuring tape, no glucometer, no ability to measure hemoglobin, and rarely have a consistent supply of prenatal vitamins. The lack of supplies and ability to perform the necessary tests instills a sense of doubt and mistrust among the villagers with the clinics ability to provide effective care.  Furthermore there is very little record keeping or documentation of care given. The nurse, who has only be stationed for 3 months, has no record of women’s past medical history, how many pregnancies, miscarriages, and live births a women has had, or who is pregnant in the village. My tentative goal at the moment is to gather this information for the nurse so that she can submit the demographics to the government to hopefully receive funding for better prenatal care. Although I am not sure how to make this sustainable; I am afraid that once I leave there will be no one to gather this information and it is highly unlikely the culture among the women will change and they will miraculous become forthcoming with this information.  Any ideas or suggestions on this would be greatly appreciated. 

Monday, April 30, 2012

April 26th


Ellen and I began our day by carrying her 3 water buckets to the bore hole to pump water. We made it about three feet from her hut when we were surrounded by children asking to carry our water buckets. “Bon Rachel! Bon Ellen! Kutapala meema!” The short journey, about the length of a football field, took about 15 minutes; stopping every few feet to greet and shake hands with everyone you see as is the custom, man, women, child, and baby.  Ellen had taught me the night before how to greet in Kaonde (Byepi muani); however she did not inform me that mani means relish. I am sure that you can tell where this story is going. I greeted the first group of women by saying “good morning relish.” They all thought it was hilarious! We finally made it to the bore hole in a cloud of children with my new boyfriend, Jeravy, perched on my hip and my spare hand clasped tightly by his sister.  “Watch me pump, watch me pump” the children cried in Kaonde (Ellen translated for me); each child as excited as the next to show me how well they pump water and anxious to see me try.
Later in the day with very little provocation 8 children helped Ellen and I knock down an old abandoned hut to gather bricks for our new bathing shelter. The current one is 6 months old and made out of grass; it is more of a peep show than anything else. The process of gathering bricks was not at fun as I had originally anticipated. The bricks are made out of mud and clay which are perfect homes for spiders and ants and termites, oh my. Lucy, a girl around 11 or 12, spend 3 hours meticulously breaking braking bricks loose with a large branch and placing the 10 pound blocks on the other children’s heads to carry to Ellen’s hut. Despite being covered from head to toe in dust the children were still laughing and smiling and joking. They completed all this work for two pieces of bubblegum! 

April 25th


Today I fell more in love with this village. Today I got to meet the children of Nyansonson! They are kind, curious, funny, energetic, and ridiculously abscessed with my long hair. Every other conversation that Ellen translated for me was about my “kwaleepa” (long) hair. I spent the morning dancing, laughing, singing, and carrying little children around.  Their wide eyes and shining faces are captivating; so much so I barely notice their runny noses, torn, dirty and thread bare clothes, or their bare feet. The joy that is visible through their entire being about a single piece of bubblegum is humbling and humiliating. When was the last time an American child was truly happy when given a single piece of bubble gum; it is embarrassing to think how much emphasis our society puts on expensive toys and games. We are made to believe that these things are essential to the happiness of our children; this is so clearly not the case.

It is amazing to think of the things in my own life that I used to think were essentials I have barely even missed. If you know me then you will know that there are not many material things that I view as extremely important since I did live out of my car for an entire summer. Today I washed my clothes outside in a bucket, I took a shower outside from a bag of water warmed by the sun, I walked down the road to pump water, I cooked dinner over homemade charcoal, I ate nshema with my fingers, and I read my book via candle light. I also charged my computer using solar power, which I do understand is a mild contradiction when discussing nonessentials, however my point being that I did not need electricity. It is empowering to know that I can survive without running water or electricity and all the accommodations that come with water and power.  And for you cynics out there I do realize that it has only been one night/day in the village, but I could not be happier! Looking forward to building a bathing shelter tomorrow!!

April 24th



After five days of I have finally made it to Nyansonso, Zambia. I arrived at Logan airport Friday evening five hours before my departure time, allowing myself plenty of time to contemplate all of the things that I forgot to bring; including but not limited to my toothbrush and my head lamp. Seeing as how I am going to be living in a village with no electricity for the next three months I thought this was rather ingenious of me. It also became evident as time went on the I also forgot the charger to my computer, I am off to a great start! My first flight to Frankfurt, Germany is uneventful. I made friends with a little boy who only spoke French; needless to say we did not talk much on the seven hour flight. I spent my 12 hour layover in Germany curled up on an airport bench reading and sleeping and wishing I could understand German so that I could ease drop on the very dramatic sounding 3 hour argument between a couple several rows in front of me. Exploring the city unfortunately was an option due to several riots in the area. The second flight was to Ethiopia. I got served fish at three in the morning and Baileys at four.  At five-thirty on Sunday morning I finally made it to Africa! My third and final flight was scheduled to depart at 0930, my first problem was that I could not find the plane (not the gate I mean the actual plane). When I do actually find what I am 85% sure in the right plane I am told that my seat (13d) does not exist because Ethiopian planes do not have a row 13. Fortunately I find a seat, land in Zambia, and make it through immigration and customs! Ellen and I spend the evening in the Backpackers in Lusaka eating Impala, drinking Mosi, and fending off the many Zambian men that want to marry a “mazungo” (white people).  The next morning is when the real adventure begins!

Ellen so kindly wakes me up at 530am (1130pm in the USA) to begin what will turn out to be a 12 hour journey to Solwezi ( a village 200km south of her village).  We travelled in 8 different vehicles, given two beers, received a free lunch and soda and received 10 different Zambian phone numbers. It was amazing!!
The next day we completed our journey by climbing onto an open bed truck with 25 other Zambian women, children and men and perched on top of a large pile of dried fish. We arrived in Ellen’s at four hours later reeking of salted fish under a sky blanketed with trillions of stars.  I snuggled in under Ellen’s mosquito net listening to the crickets chirping, the gentle hum of the Zambian language, and the scurrying of rats across Ellen’s floor. I am pretty sure that I am in love with this country and its people already!
Good night Moon!

Thursday, April 19, 2012

Last Day in the US

I leave Africa tomorrow! Yikes! I fly out of Logan airport at 10pm and I will not arrive in Zambia until 230pm on Sunday! Unfortunately I am spending more time on the ground with layovers than actually in the air; ten hours in Germany and three in Ethiopia. Packing crunch time has begun and per usual Bendroth style I have barely begun. Also since I am a Bendroth chances are I will forget to pack something wicked important like underwear or shoes (thank you papa for those genes). So without further delay and procrastination ... Let the packing begin! 

I will do my best over the next two and a half months to keep my blog updated so that you know that I am alive and well.